London, UK: January 18th-24th

As I imagined, during my time in London I had much less “down time” than when I was in Iceland. This is one of the reasons why I am writing this blog after my return to New York. 

When I visit London, I don’t feel like a tourist. I’ve been there so many times and lived there for an extended period twenty years ago, so in some ways in feels similar to New York. What I mean is, I don’t go to London to take photos of Big Ben, Westminster Abbey, and the changing of the guard, rather I visit to spend time with friends, catch the latest art exhibitions, eat some delicious ethnic food, attend various cultural events, and perhaps enjoy some shopping. In short, visiting London was an “urban fix” for me. 


I stayed with my friends Shana and Norman in a fun area of town called Shoreditch, not far to Liverpool St. station. As Shana is on maternity leave and her six-month old daughter Isabella enjoys going out, the three of us had a blast for three days, enjoying shopping on Oxford St., catching the latest exhibition at the Tate Modern, and exploring her neighborhood.

Shana and Isabella

I wanted to buy a print shirt at Liberty off Regent St. in Mayfair but they were out of stock due to January sales.

Liberty fabric

Evidently, in the not so distant past, struggling yet emerging artists flocked to Shoreditch, so it has a bohemian feel to it, which is rare for a central London location with its posh shopping and tourist kitsch. We popped in and out of various   galleries, cafes, boutique shops, and organic grocery stores and enjoyed the graffiti art that adorns the sides of buildings.

Street art in Shoreditc

On Saturday, January 22nd, I decided to explore on my own and returned to two of my favorite areas in London: Hampstead Village and Notting Hill. This day was perhaps the warmest of the entire week, so walking around was quite pleasant. In Hampstead I had a delicious goat cheese Foccacia sandwich at a chain restaurant called Giraffe, followed by a banana-chocolate crepe at the La Creperie de Hampstead.

Hampstead High Street

By the time I reached Notting Hill, the Portobello Road antique market was just about closing up. However, I did have a chance to pick up a Banksy image printed on a canvas at a local art shop, an inexpensive token to remind me of my visit to London in January 2011, where I learned about Banksy and the vibrant street art and graffiti scene in London.

Portobello Road Antique Market

While I was in London, I also had an opportunity to attend two London Philharmonic concerts. I was really excited about the concert on January 19th, as they were performing Mahler’s 5th Symphony. However, I made the mistake of not buying my ticket in advance, and was stuck with last minute “premium” seats at a whopping 55 GBP. The were indeed “premium,” right on the orchestra floor, centrally-located and not too far back. On January 22nd, I bought my ticket online in advance for a more reasonable 12 GBP, and enjoyed Faure’s Requiem. Both concerts were sublime, and it was great to see such a large audience for a classical music concert. I would think that the competition to attract an audience for classical music concerts in a city with evidently no less than five major orchestras might be tough, but both concerts appeared to be completely sold out. Like New York, London is a city of culture, and these orchestras obviously exist because there is a market for the aesthetic experiences they provide.


On Sunday, January 23rd, Shana and Isabella went to another one of London’s markets, the Columbia Road Flower Market. It was quite crowded and lively, with vendors shouting “Three for a fiver!” and the like above each other to try to attract customers. 

Columbia Road Flower Market

In the afternoon I said goodbye to my hosts and made my way to Highgate in north London to spend a night with my UH Manoa friend/colleague Will Connor. He lives in a vibrant village called Muswell Hill. An ethnomusicologist and Ph.D. student at The Royal Holloway School of Music currently researching instrument building, Will just returned from Scotland where he conducted interviews with a prominent bagpipe maker. We spent some time catching up, but mostly enjoyed playing a new X-box game, Left-4-Dead, for hours upon hours! Many of the areas in north London have a “village” feel to them and somehow feel more livable than central London. If I ever have a chance to live in London, I’d likely opt for north London. 

My flight back to New York had a few moments of scary turbulence, but I arrived on time and managed to return to the U.S.A. just a day before another snowstorm is scheduled the strike the northeast. So far my travels have not been affected by nasty weather. In the end, I could not have imagined a better way to spend my winter vacation. I managed to catch up with several close friends, address my desire for an “urban fix,” and touch the surface of a country I had not yet had an opportunity to visit. I’m sure this won’t be the last time in my life I visit Iceland and London.

Reykjavik Day 5-6

My fifth day in Iceland, January 17th, was by far the most memorable of my stay. In the morning, I awoke to snow and took advantage of the few remaining hours on my Reyjavik Welcome Card and made my way back on the bus to Lauger Spa. I made an appointment for a 60-minute facial, which entitled me to pre-treatment time in the spa. Perhaps it is best to quote from the website directly in order to convey what I experienced there:

"In the spa you enter a aquatic heaven where you can indulge both body and soul. Six different saunas and steam rooms are kept at varying temperatures, each with its own fragrance and theme. Try jacuzzis with hot and cold subterranean sea water or enjoy the relaxation room, equipped whith comfortable benches and a centrally located fireplace."

While it was relaxing I found the interior a bit too dark and industrial for my tastes. Additionally, it did not feel like any of the saunas were kept at varying temperatures. At any rate, it simply prepared me for the facial that was to follow. The facial was just OK. For all of their advertising suggesting they use natural ingredients, I found the smell of the mask and moisturizer to be too alcoholic. The aesthetician was quite good. However, I found her accent a bit thick and never found out where she was from (She definitely was NOT from Iceland!)


In the afternoon, I went on a half-day Golden Circle Excursion with Iceland Excursions.  We only visited three major locations on this tour, Þingvellir National Park, Gulfoss waterfall, and Geysir, but each one of them were spectacular in their own way. Leaving Reyjakvik, in about 25 minutes the scenery changes dramatically. Aside from the snow-ridden road, there was few signs of humanity and the eye could see nothing but a white wonderland in all directions. I really wish I had had enough time to participate in the full-day tour, which evidently includes a 60-minute+ hike into the wilderness. 

Þingvellir National Park

Our next stop was the magnificent Gulfoss waterfall. On the way there we encountered a thick fog that would have made me slow down if I were driving. Gulfoss was absolutely spectacular. I have been to Niagara Falls a number of times.  Perhaps it was the frozen arctic tundra, or the sheer grandioseness of the overall scene, but Gulfoss left a much stronger impression on me. There are actually three levels or "staircases," that comprise Gulfoss waterfall, and walking around gave an infinite number of  perspectives. If not #1, I would have to say that the Gulfoss waterfall is one of the most awe-inspiring sites I have seen in my life. 

Gulfoss waterfall 

As if the frigid wind was not enough, which caused my fingertips to turn red-purple with prolonged exposure to the air (necessary when taking photos or video!), while I was there a cold fog slowly creeped its towards me. By the time, I made my way to the on-site restaurant on top of the hill, visibility was less than 20 feet. I'm glad I made my way to Gulfoss first and took my photos before going inside to try "Iceland's best lamb soup."


The last stop on our tour was Geysir, the geysers from which all geysers in the world get their name. This term, in turn, is derived from the Icelandic verb geysa, which means "to gush." According to our tour guide, Geysir itself is no longer active. However, just a few minutes walk from Geysir is Srokkur, which erupts every 5-6 minutes. As our tour guide went inside to get warm (it was nearly 5:00PM, the sun had set and the temperature was plummeting), we all stayed behind for those 5-6 minutes to watch it blow and take some photos. 

Srokkur

We returned to Reyjakvik just after 7:00PM and I had dinner in the trendy Cafe Paris. 

The next day I did some last minute shopping and boarded a hotel shuttle at 11:30AM to take me to the BSI terminal. From there I boarded a bus bound for the Blue Lagoon, where I bathed in the hot waters for an hour or so before catching a bus to Keflavik Airport for my flight to London.

When I was planning this trip to Iceland, I was hesitant at first to include as many days as I did. I was concerned that there wouldn't be enough things to do to keep me occupied and that the weather and lack of daylight would keep me holed up in my hotel room. Looking back, I cannot believe that I considered staying fewer days than I did. This trip has sparked my interest in taking another trip to Iceland someday in the future, perhaps in the summer when there is nearly 24 hours of sunlight!

Reykjavik Day 3-4

Perfect winter light

My third day in Reyjavik (January 15th) started out to be the most beautiful in terms of weather. In the morning, I made an appointment to get an Icelandic Stone Massage at the Mecca Spa inside of the Radisson Blue Saga Hotel. As I made my way past the post in the direction of Hagatorg turnaround, I was welcomed by the most perfect winter light for taking photographs. Unfortunately, when I arrived for my appointment, the spa manager regretfully informed me that there was an error in the booking calendar and there was actually nobody to perform the treatment. Disappointed but intent to make the most of the day, I made my way to the Kolaportið weekend market and bought a few small gifts. 

Right across the street from the market I enjoyed "the best hot dog in town" at Bæjarins beztu pylsur. The crispy fried onion at the bottom delivered an extraordinary textural element that I had never tasted before in a hot dog and the remoulade, a mayonnaise-based sauce with sweet relish was absolutely delicious. 

Bæjarins beztu pylsur, in business since 1937

My hot dog with "the works"

After lunch I attempted to make good use of my Rekjavik 48 Hour Welcome Card and board a ferry bound for Videy Island.  However, I made a mistake reading the bus timetable and missed my connection to bus 5 at Hlemmer bus terminal. Thinking that I could do the remaining distance by foot, I briskly walked along the costal road for 45+ minutes. I never ended up finding the ferry terminal, and after the departure time passed I lost incentive to find it. Although winter brings a drop in accommodation costs and less numbers of tourists, it also results in more limited transportation options. The 3:15PM ferry to Videy Island was the last of three departures on this day. I waited in the cold for 20 minutes for a return bus, walked up Laugavegur, the main shopping street, had a late lunch, and then returned to the hotel to rest. In the evening, I had dinner at a cozy pub around the corner and enjoyed Icelandic meat stew in a bread bowl, a steal at just 1,050 ISK ($9).

Afterwards, I went on a Northern Lights tour with Reyjavik Excursions. Despite the moderate forecast, nothing was seen. The guide was apologetic (it's not his fault after all!), but I couldn't believe that they were able to pull in six coaches filled with 73 people a coach at 4,900 ISK ($42). The tour was written down as "unsuccessful," which entitled us to another "free" tour. However, who wants to be stuck in a crowded bus for 3-4 hours in the slim hopes that one might see some Northern Light activity?! What made me upset is this: When one passenger asked, "When was the last successful Northern Lights tour?," the guide's answer was evasive. We pulled into the downtown area not earlier than 1:00AM, dropping off 73 people enroute (my hotel was the last one!). I laid down and was out like a rock in less then 10 minutes.

On my fourth day (January 16th) it was drizzling nearly all day, so I decided to do mainly indoor activities. In the morning, I learned a bit about Icelandic history at the National Museum of Iceland and afterwards caught a bus to the Kringlan shopping mall. However, the highlight by far of this day was visiting the Laugar geo-thermal pool. Visiting geo-thermal pools is the one activity that is better done in winter than in summer, and there are over 20 of them in the Reykjavik area. There was no better way to see first-hand how the local people enjoy spending their free time. In contrast to a Japanese hot spring, visitors all wear bathing suits and the facilities are shared between the sexes. In general, in terms of a "hot-spring" experience, I couldn't help but feel that I was simply bathing in a heated swimming pool, and so it pales in comparison to Japan's hot spring. Never the less, I left feeling relaxed and rejuvenated and feeling that the citizens of Reyjavik are quite lucky to have these facilities at their doorstep!

Laugar geo-thermal pool

Reykjavik Day 1-2

My first night in Iceland, after taking a red-eye from New York and lounging in 98-102 degree warm water all day, was spend in deep slumber. In the morning a scrumptious breakfast awaited me at my hotel, traditional Icelandic fare consisting of a variety of cheeses, bread, fruit, and Skyr yogurt.

Delicious breakfast at the Blue Lagoon clinic hotel

I took one last dip in the exclusive pool at the clinic from 8:00AM in the darkness, and then at 10:00AM I received another comp pass to the Blue Lagoon and made one last trek across the terrain. At 10:00AM the sun was just beginning to rise, but daylight didn't come until 11:00AM. One advantage of visiting the Blue Lagoon during the winter, and especially during these odd hours, is that there are so few people bathing in the pool. Despite this, I happened to meet quite a few Japanese this morning, and befriended a group of three Japanese who will actually be returning to London on the same Iceland Air flight as me on January 18th. At 11:00AM I rushed to get dressed and made my way back the clinic to pack and catch my bus to Reykjavik. 

The rest of the day was pretty much a wash. Perhaps it's a combination of jet lag and bathing 4+ times in the warm waters of the Blue Lagoon, but I've been exhausted since my arrive. On my first day in Reykjavik, I checked into my hotel, the CenterHotel Thingholt early and then took an afternoon nap from 2:00-4:00. 

Entrance to the CenterHotel Thingholt

Sadly, the sun began to set at 4:00PM (somehow I was in denial of this before my arrival!) and the wind was really howling, so it was not the best time to start my day. Never the less, I wanted to begin my exploration of this fascinating city. I walked up Laugaveger, the primary shopping street in Reykjavik, and checked out a couple of shops that drew my attention. I wandered in and out of some of the boutique shops and enjoyed scouting out a few items that I might like to pick up before departing. I was so impressed at the absence of any international chains. It was interesting to learn from a local shopkeeper that Iceland is one of the few industrialized countries in the world that does not have a McDonald's or Starbucks. Needless to say, these leads to some fairly unique finds in this city. For dinner, I had fish stew in a jar at the Icelandic Bar (Islenski Barinn). I had difficulty sleeping during my first night at CenterHotel Thingholt, and was up from 3:30AM to 7:00AM or so. I eventually got back to sleep, but ended up oversleeping until after 10:00AM and nearly missing breakfast downstairs! Somehow, my body just doesn't want to get up when it is still dark outside. Perhaps the lack of sunlight has something to do with my low energy. I wonder how energizing Iceland must be in the summer when the country is bathed with the midnight sun!?!? At any rate, I got dressed as soon as possible and raced outside to enjoy the remaining daylight hours. I wandered around the shops and spend an inordinate amount of time in Bad Taste Records listening to various recordings of Icelandic folk music, eventually purchasing three CDs that would be difficult to find in the U.S.A. In one day I easily explored most of the downtown area. I particular enjoyed the pond, where I humorously watched ducks walking on the frozen ice!

 I also found the view from the top of Hallgrímskirkja church to be just spectacular, with the LEGO-like rooftops providing dramatic contrast to the otherwise gray sky. 

View of downtown from the top of the Hallgrímskirkja church

In the evening I made my way down to the Old Harbour to sample what is reputed to be the best lobster soup in town at Saegreifinn (The Sea Baron). It was undeniable delicious, but not quite the standard of the lobster soup found at the LAVA Restaurant. The Sea Baron also grills up generous portions of seafood on a skewer, and offers controversial items on their menu such as (yikes!) mink whale!

The Blue Lagoon, Iceland

When I recently wrote to a colleague and told him that I was going to Iceland for a short winter vacation, he immediately responded, "Iceland?! In winter?!! You got your calendar upside down." Actually, this is not the first year that I pondered taking a trip Iceland. I came pretty close to booking a plane ticket last year. Multiple visits to weather.com left me unconvinced that it would be too cold to enjoy. After all, due to the warm gulf stream Iceland is reputed to be milder than other regions of the same latitude. Temperatures in the 20s or 30s didn't phase me as New York can easily get colder than that in the winter. What really turned me away was the sun not rising until (yikes!) 11:00AM and setting shortly after 4:00PM. This year however, I decided to bite the bullet and go for it, convincing myself that visiting Reykjavik in the off-season would result in lower prices and less crowds.


My flight from JFK took off last night just before Mother Nature dumped another 20 inches of snow on the tri-state area. I got out just in time. Despite fear that winter winds near Iceland would make for a bumpy landing it was a relatively smooth flight. Iceland Air 614 actually arrived 45 minutes ahead, leaving me 3+ hours in the airport waiting for my bus to the Blue Lagoon. I know it was early, but for an  international airport it was nearly deserted. I could practically count the number of people in the terminal.


At 9:30AM sharp when it was still dark, a burly man shouted out to a number of us waiting in the terminal that the bus to the Blue Lagoon would soon depart. Despite the fact that it looked like the middle of night (and felt like the middle of the night due to my jet lag!) the towns we drove through showed signs of mid-morning daily life; children playing in playgrounds, bakeries serving customers, etc. We arrived shortly after 10:00AM, and after dropping off the other passengers, the bus driver took me to my accommodation for my first night in Iceland: The Blue Lagoon Clinic Hotel.


At this point my body felt like it was 5:00AM without a wink of sleep. Mercifully, reception allowed me to check-in early. Overwhelmed with joy that the sun was beginning to rise, I took some photos before dozing off for a nap. The rooms at the Blue Lagoon Clinic Hotel are spartan but comfortable, and the accessible patios look out on a moss-covered lava field.

My room at the Blue Lagoon Clinic Hotel

I awoke quite grumpy shortly after 1:00PM but pulled myself out of bed to make my way to the Blue Lagoon. Getting to the Blue Lagoon from the clinic hotel requires a 600 meter (10 minute) walk down a path forged through the lava fields. It really is quite surreal, as if you were suddenly transported to another planet.

Path to the Blue Lagoon

The Blue Lagoon is a spa of natural geo-thermal seawater that really must be seen to be believed. Since there are so many geo-thermal pools in Iceland that are free and open to the public, some people may argue that the Blue Lagoon is a tourist trap. They charge a whopping 28 Euros ($37) for admission alone, and this doesn't include essentials such as a towel or bathrobe. Still, they have turned this area into an oasis of relaxation and wonder, and it is a must-see for any visiter to Iceland. It is a strange feeling to be basking in 98-102 degree waters while icicles form on your hair. Hint: If you stay at the Blue Lagoon hotel clinic, admission is included in your accommodation fee, and you have access to private facilities for guests of the hotel from 8-10AM/PM daily.

The Blue Lagoon

One of the most fun things to do at the Blue Lagoon is to hang around the silica mud buckets and apply the silica to your face like a mask. The pure white geothermal mud cleans and exfoliates remarkably well.

In the evening I treated myself to dinner at the LAVA Restaurant on premises. Be prepared for astronomical prices. Here it's more about atmosphere than anything else, as the restaurant is built into a cliff and and overlooks the milky blue waters of the lagoon.

Window view from the LAVA restaurant

I must admit however, that the lobster soup with dill cream, roasted langoustine, cayenne, coconut, and cognac was to die for.

Lobster soup